In Car Entertainment System - Part II

In this part we bring to you the basic things that one should keep in mind while going for a car system. There are a variety of things are to be considered but certain key aspects stand out as the decision making factors. So, read on..

Planning and Buying

 

A bare-basic system will include a head unit and two to four speakers. But to find the best you can afford and get the best sound out of your car will take a fair bit of research and a competent installer. Compromise is inevitable, given the average consumer’s usually limited budget. An ICE setup can cost anything in range of a few thousands to a few lakhs.

 You should start by listing down a few things which you should use as a guideline. Start with the budget (very important, since you can go overboard very easily!), what music formats are the most common in your library, what kind of connectivity you would like in your receiver (iPod, USB, SD card), any other features you may want (Bluetooth or phone compatibility, navigation) and whether you want to hook up a head-rest monitor or overhead screen for video playback for rear passengers. You've also got to be certain about what you're expecting from the system and also look at what kind of music genre you primarily listen to. Some systems configured for pure video may end up doing a shoddy job of reproducing a natural soundstage when listening to a concert for example. And you need to understand whether it's nice crisp bass you fancy or whether you want a lot of boom. So list all these down methodically and try and stick to the list since it is very easy to get tempted to spend more money and not arrive at the kind of sound you had envisaged in your car.

  First we’ll walk you through an example system that we believe includes everything you need to have a pretty good sounding system. Here’s a nice tip for you, do not do everything at once, especially since budgets can be a deciding factor and you can build the system over a few years. With a little planning you can upgrade your system in steps and that way it’s like getting a new system every time you change something instead of getting everything at once!

Setup

 
   A good system should start off with a good head unit that either has a DVD or a CD player which will play all the regular sound formats (mp3, aac, wma). You may like something with an iPod control or an Aux-In since that will make it more usable. Next, a component kit with a good midrange/tweeter set for the front rather than coaxial. Since, head units generally do not put out enough clean power so you may want an amplifier to drive the speakers. In the rear where you only need some ‘fill’ for ambiance you can get away with cheaper coaxials and set their level lower than the fronts to keep the sound stage in front. A modest (50x4) 4 channel amp is a good choice here for powering the component set up front and the rear speakers. Midranges sound best when they do not play bass so you will want a 2 way electronic crossover, which should come as part of the component kit. Most people are happy with a single 10" subwoofer or a pair of 12"s. Use an appropriate enclosure and a big amp (at least 75x2, preferably even more) or run a monoblock for the sub. Throw in installation and wiring accessories (like fuses and distribution blocks).

Head unit: 7,000 – 15,000

4-channel amp for highs: 9,000 – 16,000

2-channel amp for lows: 9,000 – 18,000

Sub(s) (1-10" to 2-12"): 4,500 – 16,000

Enclosure (Bandpass) for sub(s): 2500 – 4000

Component set: 4,500 – 12,000

Coaxials for rear fill: 3,000 – 8,000

Wiring and Accessories: 1,500 – 4,000

Installation: 1,500 – 3,000

   This comes out to close to 42,000 for quality setup. However, the things listed above are what we feel is necessary to have a system with only a few compromises. If you are less concerned about highs, get coaxials in front instead of the component set and power them off of the head unit and use some bass blockers on them. This will save you quite a bit! You could also consider getting an active subwoofer instead of running a separate amp and a subwoofer with a custom enclosure. Getting a bargain head unit can save you some money as well and you should try and negotiate with the installer on the total package cost.  So proper planning and selection of components according to ones needs it can be brought down easily.

   If you are really not hot on bass, you can forgo all the bass related equipment and run your component set full range. This will still give you clean sound but not much bass. However, you might end up saving some money. When buying equipment try to spend time listening to it before you buy, especially with speakers. Also try to use equipment that is similar to yours when listening in a store. As for amps, it costs money to build a good amp so if you see some awesome price on an amp you have never heard of before, it is probably a piece of junk. Stick with good names with amplifiers and speakers.  So an alternative setup may be as,

Head unit: 7,000 – 15,000

Active Sub-Woofer :  8,000 – 18,000

Coaxials for front & rear: 6,000-12,000

Wiring and Accessories: 1,500 – 2,500

Installation: 1,500 – 3,000

   This setup should set you back by roughly 25,000-30,000. Only you know what kind of system you can be happy with so let your ears be the guide when it comes to your car audio system, since what sound might appeal to you, may not appeal to your friends.
 And since money doesn’t grow on trees and you want an immediately better sounding system, just changing the factory speakers and getting better speaker wiring will help. And whatever it is, remember it’s your car and your ears so don’t get taken in by sales spiel and buy something you do not need or can’t really afford!

    Very high end audio setups include everything from adding high quality components with dedicated amps, at least two sub woofers with their own amps. Today a lot of people add two or more screens and some newer headunits support Dolby 5.1 for DVD playback. There’s no dearth of what you can really cram into your car. If you think that your car’s electrical system can’t stand it, you can always add in a deep cycle battery and capacitors to handle the extra load when the bass really hits! Setups like this can start at a mere Lakh and go to several Lakh Rupees. It all boils down to what brands you want in your car and how loud or customized you want it to get.

More to come on Part 3 about installations, brands & more. So stay tuned


-The Grease Monkey Blog Team

In Car Entertainment System - Part I

In-Car-Entertainment, also called as ICE has very humble beginnings from back in 1930 when the 1st car radio was launched called Motorola 5T71, and today it has flourished into a mutli-billion dollar industry. ICE is a vital part of our daily lives, I doubt one can imagine traveling somewhere without music!! These days the car manufacturers have realized this, and now even the entry level cars come with factory mounted music systems. Though these may be good enough for a general user, many audiophiles want more...and boy do they have options!

So to elaborate more, here we have a small guide. And we start with the basic components required for a good ICE system.

Head Units/Receivers

The head unit, also called as a receiver, is the part of the car stereo that you interact with most. So it is important to get one that ‘feels’ good to you and something you’d like to look at every day. Since many models in the same price range are similar in features and sound quality, usability is often the deciding factor between models. The most common features on a head-unit today would be playback of a disc with support for MP3, WMA, AAC and Audio CD formats. In addition there is the standard AM/FM tuner and some units now sport an Aux-In and a USB port which allows you to plug in a pen-drive. Most receivers today support iPod connectivity although full-iPod control through the USB is something that not all manufacturers have in the market at the moment.

2 DIN Head Unit

When you’re looking at a receiver also consider whether it has Pre-amp outputs. These are must for any serious upgrades later on and are quite desirable in the head unit. These outputs allow you to run an amplifier directly and this is the cleanest signal output from a receiver. If your vehicle has a 2DIN slot you can go for double-DIN sized system. This widens your options since you can get a full-touch-screen based system with an in-dash DVD, and for those who want navigation this is a definite plus. With a large display you can install a reverse-camera for your car and have the camera image on your system display.

Manufacturers often use terms like ‘music power’ or ‘peak power’ which have little real meaning because there is no standard definition of those terms. If the power is quoted in ‘RMS’ terms then it is usually accurate. However, there is still one other place of misconception. Often manufacturers will quote power as ‘30watts x 4 RMS’. What they are implying here is that all 4 channels can produce 30watts RMS at the same time as a total and not per channel.

Amplifiers

To arrive at clean playing sound through the speakers your amplifier has to be up to the task. As explained before each receiver does have a built in amplifier but in order to get clean and powerful sound a dedicated amplifier is the right thing to do. Amplifiers, head units and speakers have to be matched well, so it is best to leave it to a professional installer if you’re still experimenting, since it can prove to an expensive mistake. Most installers in a mid-to-high end system will use a four channel amp to power your components inside of the car and a dedicated mono-block amplifier to run the sub-woofer. Do look at the construction and "feel" of the amp as well to help make your decision and you can always request for a demo on a vehicle with a similar setup to what you’d like to run to understand the difference an amp will make.

Speakers

Co-axial 6x9 speakers

The speakers are very important too, an awesome head unit and amp pair will be utter waste until nice quality speakers aren’t installed! A speaker called a tweeter reproduces high frequencies generally above 2 kHz. Tweeters are small and lightweight so they can respond quickly. Very little power is required for powering tweeters because they are very efficient.

However, the most common upgrade from the factory speakers are to a pair of Coaxial speakers which have the woofer and tweeter packaged in one unit. An improvement over the co-axial speaker can be seen in almost all cars with speaker upgrades. It is the ubiquitous ‘oval’ or 6x9 composite-speakers which has a mid-bass woofer, a mid range and a tweeter. This is a fair compromise without having to invest in separate components and unless you’re a true audiophile, you’ll be more than satisfied with the clarity and punch most of these speakers have.

Sub-woofers & Enclosures

Woofers are typically large and are sized anywhere from 8” to 18”, they are exact opposite of tweeters because they usually require large amounts of power to really move air. Woofers are meant to produce sound at frequencies below 250 Hz and often just below 100 Hz as in the case of sub-woofers.

The oldest and most popular type is a sealed enclosure. This method simply has the woofer firing into the car and the back wave is suppressed inside the box. This method usually produces tight accurate bass but is not as efficient. Also this method typically requires a large box to work well. Finally because of the lower efficiency of this design more powerful amps and woofers are needed to play loudly.

10" Tube Sub-Woofer

For people with limited boot space there’s always the bazooka tube sub-woofer enclosure which can utilize a smaller woofer and yet produce twice the amount of ‘loud boom’ thanks to the tube-bazooka design. This works well in hatchbacks or small sedans where space is at a premium. Another sensible option to get some punch into a small and basic install (which is just a receiver and four speakers) is to add an active sub-woofer. Essentially this is just a sub-woofer in an enclosure with its own dedicated built-in amplifier. This works well on the cost front with an active sub-woofer costing a tad less than if you’d add all the components separately. There’s also less wiring to deal with and it makes for a neater install. Several manufacturers in India have good quality active sub-woofers and if you get a slim packaged sub, you could even fit it under a seat.

 

Crossovers

An electronic crossover takes a full range signal and divides it into different frequency ranges. The most common types are 2-way or 3-way. A 2-way crossover divides the frequency range in half at some cut off frequency. All signals below the cut off frequency are routed to a low pass pre-amp output and the rest are sent to a high pass output. Usually these are just simple high pass or low pass units. You connect a high pass crossover to a speaker to block bass to that speaker. Some people call these “bass blockers”. You use a low pass crossover with a woofer so it only plays "lows." Typically component speakers (Coaxial speakers) which will consist of a mid range driver and a tweeter will come with a crossover which will split the sound and deliver quality sound that each individual speaker.

Sound processors / Equalizers

Equalizers give you the capability to fine tune your system. It is virtually impossible to get speakers to reproduce sound perfectly, and in a multiple speaker system things are even more complex because the different drivers interact with each other. With an equalizer you can boost or cut certain frequency ranges to tailor the overall sound to whatever you desire.

For real audiophiles, a lot of manufacturers have a separate EQ module with its own screen which allows you to fine tune the sound over and above what you’d be able to do with just your receiver. The number of bands in an equalizer tells you how fine an adjustment you can make. You can get a 10 band equalizer which breaks up the audio range into 10 parts, real audiophiles will love a 30 band EQ module, but be warned – these should only be considered if you’re a true connoisseur.

So much for the basic idea on the various elements of ICE systems, we hope that whatever has been mentioned helps you understand your system in much better way.

Coming up this week more on buying and setup, tuning, brands etc., so stay tuned...

- Grease Monkey Blog Team

Indian Grand Prix

     If you like fast cars and racing them, I’m sure you'd already know of the Indian Grand Prix slated to be held in 2011. For all those who are slow at catching up with things (pun intended), you heard me right! 

Formula 1 is a sport that has been gaining popularity all over India. It all started back in 2005 with Narain Karthikeyan, he was for long the only driver representing India at top Motorsport levels and finally got a shot at F1 in the Jordan GP team. Then in October 2007, beer baron Vijay Mallya bought the ailing Spyker F1 and re-badged it Force India, which is currently making legends like Williams F1 run for its money. 

Karthikeyan at Jordan GP

Force India VJM-03

Karun Chandok, HRT

  And this year Karun Chandok has made it to F1, racing for the new Hispania Racing Team. 

 And now to top these, we are going to host our very own Grand Prix...!!!

The circuit is currently under construction at Greater Nodia and has been designed by the legendary F1 circuit designer Hermann Tilke. The track is 5.5 Km long and has some very interesting curves and bends, and will be 2^nd in maximum average speed among all the current F1 tracks.

  

  You must be thinking now...all this is immaterial, look at all the media reports and how the Govt has created a mess of the Commonwealth Games. And this is what makes me smile and jump with joy, because apart from the permissions and legal formalities the Govt has very less contribution in this entire project. The entire track and venue is being built by private players, and I have full assurance that they will do the job right. So as of now, all we can do is keep our fingers crossed and wait for a year, wishing that all goes as planned. Even if God forbid, the Commonwealth Games bring shame instead of fame to the country in these coming months, we do have another shot at international fame and glory.

 So let’s hope we are those few lucky ones who get cheap pit lane passes for the amazing event and Mallya sticks to his word of bringing Force India on the podium. Just can’t wait for it...!!!    

- Gaurav Singh

Maruti Suzuki Ritz

The hatchback market in India has evolved by leaps and bounds recently. The sheer number of options available as of now is a perfect example of this. It can be said that Maruti Suzuki is the definitive leader of this trend in our market and giants like Hyundai and Tata, trying to emulate its success. But when you look at it, it is pretty obvious why it is so. Economy of fuel and of the overall cost of ownership is very vital to most of the customers and Maruti Suzuki products fulfil these criteria rather well, along with smart engineering and good built quality. So for an average person, who wishes to spend around 5-6 lac on his first car, among the myriad of alternatives the Ritz stands tall (quite literally) as one of the strongest contenders.

The Look

The Ritz styling can be best defined as ‘Radical’; though the front looks contemporary, it’s the profile and the rear end that causes stirs. The nose has been styled pretty well and it actually manages to pull off the Audi grill, I doubt many laymen have noticed this. The headlamps have a nice curve, which gives the front end a fine balanced and well weighed look. Ritz follows the ‘tall-boy’ design like its older brother the Wagon-R. The side of the car is simple with almost no kinks in the doors or shoulder lines running from the front lamps to the rear ones, but the prominent and chunky wheel arches break the monotony of the design. Looking at the car from this view one will notice that there is a smooth integration of the flowing curves of the bonnet, windshield and the roof. But this synergy comes to an abrupt end with and edge at the rear along with the ‘Boomerang’ tail lights. But it’s been long since this car has been launched in our market and by now the masses have come to terms with its redefined styling and overall look of the car.

Interiors

The high roof gives the cabin a very airy feel and not at all claustrophobic like some other hatchbacks out there. The driving position is high, not very sporty and doesn’t give the confidence while attacking the corners. A new driver will find this position useful as he will get a good view point all around. The dashboard sports, again, a ‘Radical’ instrument cluster. I doubt if I can call it a cluster as there is just one huge retro looking speedometer, with the odometer and other warning lights set inside the periphery of the dial. The tachometer has been placed separately on the dashboard like the aftermarket ones, some do find this nice but I rather find it a bit tacky (pun intended). This being the Zxi version the dash was blue in colour at some places and with a surface finish which I think is trying to mimic carbon-fibre. The air vents are appealing and have a nice feel, they are not like the other Maruti circular ones which is a pleasant change. Storage space is just average, it has just one cubbyhole and that too has the ash-box placed in it...so no decent place to keep those cans while driving. The centre console looks good but again shares all the knobs and the music system from other Marutis. Another different thing that one will notice is the placing of the gear lever. It’s mounted on the centre console; this was brought to us first by Hyundai in its i10. The fabric on the seats and the door cards, too are blue in colour and this is not at all soft on the eyes. Back seats are decent with more legroom and headroom than its closest rival the Swift. So the final word on the interiors would be decent space with moderate quality of plastics.

Power train

Ritz diesel

Ritz petrol

The Ritz has the Maruti K series engine, which in this avatar develops a healthy 85ps@6000rpm and the diesel engine offers 75ps@4000rpm. Traditionally Maruti hatches are not heavyweights and the Ritz follows the same philosophy, as a result the car has a nice power to weight ratio when compared to the competition. The K series engine has won many accolades and it is not difficult to see why. It is very refined and smooth, develops healthy power and torque while giving the trademark fuel efficiency. The diesel engine is the one sourced from Fiat and it powers 7 cars in our market as of now. This number says it all, and I don’t think I need to elaborate much on it; but it does suffer from a pretty evident turbo-lag. These engines have been mated to a regular 5-speed gearbox. But here is where the car really disappoints. The gear stick, though mounted ergonomically, is not amusing to use. It feels like as though you are trying to pull a rag cloth from the mouth of a rabid Great Dane. It just doesn’t fall in the correct place and one really has to wrestle to get it right. It really lets down the amazing engine. And to make the gear shift worse, the positioning of the clutch lever isn’t perfect either and after just a few kilometres the left ankle starts to feel the strain. But all said and done, once the job of selecting a gear is done, the car cruses pretty well.

Handling and Ride

Now being the monsoon season, it wasn’t difficult at all to judge the suspension of the car. I wasn’t expecting much out of this car in terms of ride and handling as I had or shall I say have a prejudice toward Japanese and Korean hatches. But the Ritz actually made me think twice. The ride over the horrendous potholes was very good and well composed, and it managed to give a very comfortable ride. So after this I assumed that the corners will definitely show the flaws of the suspension setup. But as I approached the turn, I was very surprised as the car held its calm and was unwavering. Throwing the car around corners would be definite fun, but it won’t be for the faint hearted. I say so because the high roof-line means the car is top heavy and this induces massive body roll. Though I was very impressed by the composure of the car under all circumstances, I still feel the Japanese are behind their European counterparts when it comes to sheer ride quality and driver oriented handling.

Running costs

When it comes to cost of ownership Maruti heads the field from most of its rivals. Company claims mileage of 17.7 km/l for petrol and 21.1 km/l for diesel variants. Running costs vary around Rs 6/km for diesel and Rs 7/km for petrol (all inclusive, based on our calculations) in addition Maruti cars have always had a good re-sale value. Company is offering a discount of Rs 15000 across all variants, any additional discounts are negotiable. It is more advisable to take a 3yr loan instead of 5yr as you can save upto Rs 50000 on interest. A very promising deals overall.

Final Word

The Ritz did impress me on many counts, and disappointed me on a few. Whatever one may say, the brilliant engine under the hood of this car just can’t be ignored and what the car is offering can easily overshadow its flaws. It’s spacious, powerful, efficient and reliable; and most importantly doesn’t burn a hole through the pocket. For the average Joe out there, it’s got the perfect combination of all the good stuff a car requires and makes for a very sensible purchase. And that is the bottom line

Enthusiasts continue reading...

I would not recommend this for you. Yes you may say on paper the car has better figures, but what it lacks cannot be put in numbers. And this is where I feel the Ritz falls short; it simply can’t manage to get the poise, dynamics and pure pleasure of the Fiat Punto or VW Polo, or for that matter even its sibling Swift. Connecting emotionally with this car on a driver level doesn’t seem possible, and in the end, isn’t it the connection between Man and Machine that matters?

For more details, pricing and specs; go to

http://www.marutisuzukiritz.com/

-Written by- Gaurav Singh

-Editing & Inputs- Grease Monkey Blog team

-Photography – Tejas Kudtarkar